Tuilik -- Page 2

After gluing the side seams of the body together, I sew a reinforcing stitch on the bottom of the tuilik.  I use a blind running stitch on the inside of the tuilik a distance of 6-8 inches up from the bottom of both side seams.  After that I glue the folded over bungee casing.  I unfortunately didn't get pictures of this part, but the picture below shows the same thing being done on a sprayskirt.  Note the glue strips of equal width on either side of a central glueless strip with a width slightly greater than the bungee circumference.  Also note the folded over seam overlaps the casing to body seam.  Be sure to be generous with the glue on this step -- the fabric facing on the neoprene really sucks up the glue.


Now comes the harder part -- the hood.  I start by gluing the under-the-chin seam, and then gluing the hood center strip to the top of one of the hood pieces for a length of only an inch or two.  I do this so the hood pieces will be flat for the attachment of the face-cord casing.  I start with extra length on the casing strip and trim after this step.  The helping hand of assistant can help keep the glue surfaces from premature contact,

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ITo ensure the inward tapering of the face seal, I stretch the casing slightly as I glue it to the hood during this step.  Notice in the next picture my right thumb stretching the casing as it is glued to the hood.   It is a good idea to double check that the hood will fit your face by measuring across your forehead, down the side of your face, under your chin, and back up the other side of your face, and then to make sure that the face seal casing as glued is close to this measurement.  I would recommend transferring this measurement to the hood casing strip.  The overall length of the edge on the hood pieces to which the casing gets glued should be greater than this length.  I cut the hood casing piece longer than it needs to be, and ensure that the face circumference mark comes close to far edge of the hood.

The next step is to glue the fold-over for the face cord casing.  This is the same sort of folded over seam as on the bungee casing. Notice the folded over glued seam overlaps the casing-hood seam.

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I don't have pictures of the remaining steps, but I've already shown the hard part.  For some reason the camera wasn't out during the final steps.  I promise to get the camera out next time and will add more pics of the rest of the process.


The next steps are:


-Glue the rest of the hood center strip to the hood piece


-Glue the other hood side to the hood hood center strip

-Glue the hood to the Body (make sure the face opening is facing the right way!)

-Glue the Sleeve seams (i.e. to get the Sleeves pieces into the "tube" shape)

-Glue the Sleeves to the body

-Thread the face-cord and the bungee.

-Hand stitch reinforcements at the stress points (around the hood, armpits, shoulders, or, just stitch the whole thing, it really doesn't take very long)

-Applying a bead of Aquaseal over the seams also provides a good seam reinforcement.


I use black neoprene glue (I purchased mine from John R Sweet - )  I put it on with two applications, 1) apply a first coat, wait at least 5 minutes, 2) apply the second coat, wait 10 minutes, then stick the glued surfaces together.  Especially on the folded over casing seams, make sure your first application is generously applied.  If the glue gets overly thick & sticky, you can thin with a little toluene.  I always wear my respirator when using this glue.


You might also want to check out my presentation on making a neoprene sprayskirt .  It has more detail on the general gluing process and describes some of the other materials used.




-John Doornink

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